Here's a How-To on the rather simple Zex system. I tried to complicate it as much as possible by installing a heater, opener, gauges and fuel system, but it's still pretty straight forward. This sytem, jetted at 125, took the stock 5.7 from 14.4X to 13.6X in back-to-back runs. As there was no tuning in the truck, speed was limited - it should easily take a full second plus off ET in a vehicle with extended mph.

The first step is mounting the Zex NMU. Carefully choose your location for the NMU being sure you will be able to reach the air intake tube once mounted. On this truck the Airaid filter housing served as an excellent location.


Mounting the fuel pressure regulator close to the NMU makes for a clean install, avoiding fuel lines zig-zagging across the engine bay. Mount the Auto Meter fuel pressure sending unit to the regulator and double-check clearance for lines and wiring harnesses then mark and drill your locations.


Install -6 hose ends on bulk lengths of -6 fuel line. Be sure to use steel-braided line for the pressure side and, at a minimum, rubber fuel injection hose for the return line. The pressure line will need to handle 80 psi and the return line will be 30 to 40 psi, so keep this in mind when buying your bulk line.


Install a -6 tee to the inlet side of the regulator and attach the steel braided hose. On the third end of the tee, use a -6 to -4 adapter and route a -4 line to the fuel inlet on the NMU with 90-degree elbows to avoid kinking the lines. Install the -4 purge tee and nitrous feed line supplied in the Zex kit on the nitrous inlet port on the NMU. Installing these lines prior to placing the air box back in the truck will make life easier due to the tight fit of the hardware once in place.


Select a location for the purge solenoid close to NMU. Before mounting, check the supplied -3 line in the Zex purge kit will reach from the tee on the NMU to the purge solenoid. Once you have this verified, install the fittings on the purge solenoid and mount in place with the supplied hardware.

Reinstall the housing back on the base and route the lines down between the firewall and splash shield. Route the lines through the body mounts back to the bed. Be sure to secure with zip ties.


With all the hardware mounted under hood, start in the bed by mounting the bottle brackets with the supplied hardware. Be sure to verify you have a clear shot under the chosen location so lines and wiring are clear of suspension pieces and you will be able to access the bolts for tightening. Once the bottle is positioned, drill a 1” hole for the nitrous feed line and wiring.


Choose a location for the fuel pump. The pump is gravity fed, so ideally this will be under the bed and clear of moving suspension pieces, the differential and spare tire/ winch. Install the filter on the inlet side of the pump with the -10 adapter and fit a -8 to -6 reducer on the outbound side of the filter.
Mount the pump with the supplied bolts and insulated brackets – use blue thread locker on the mounting bolts. Install a -6 hose end on the pressure line coming from the engine compartment and thread onto the pump outlet. Be sure to support the fuel line as needed to keep it clear of the differential.



Choose a location for the fuel cell factoring the routing of the return line as well as the routing of the supply line to the pump. Also, choose a location that will accommodate easy refilling. To mount the fuel cell, we picked up some bulk aluminum and 3/8” bolts, nuts, lock washers and fender washers. Measure twice and bend once as the aluminum can only be formed one time without sacrificing its rigidity. Mount the cell in place and drill a 1” hole for the supply line to the pump in the floor of the bed. Double-check under the bed to avoid drilling into suspension pieces or double-walled bed reinforcements.



Drill another 1” hole near the cell inlet port for the return line. To keep hoses in the bed to a minimum, we routed the line between the inner and outer bedside panels. Be sure not to drill the access hole too close to the cell inlet to avoid sharp bends or kinks in the line. Install a grommet in the access hole for insulation and a -6 hose end and attach to the cell inlet port. Install a -6 cap on the unused inlet port if your cell is equipped with dual inlets.

So we can open and close the bottle on the fly, we’re installing Zex’s remote bottle opener. Install by removing the manual handle and installing the opener gear. Slide the collar over the bottle and using the supplied clamp, fasten the bottle opener to the collar.


Install a single port -4 bottle manifold to the bottle port and thread the Auto Meter nitrous pressure sending unit into the manifold. Use Teflon tape or putty on the NPT thread to avoid leaks.


Ideally bottle pressure should be between 900 to 1050 psi., so to keep our bottle in the sweet spot we’re using Zex’s bottle heater with an integral thermostatic control. Affix the heater to the bottle and fasten the bottle in the insulated brackets.

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2003 Ram
Arrington 426 stroker
TCI 727
FAST XFI
2006 Magnum R/T
Diablo
Flowmaster catback
Arrington heads/cam coming soon...
ARRINGTON POWER: When you're ready to get serious

I really like the purge location. Very detailed I wish you would of had this forum up when I installed my system as they say a picture is worth a thousand words.

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2007 4x4 Sport QC
Couple mods here and there.

ZEX same one you have talked about it @ HTC just running the 75 shot dual tanks under the rear seats.

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2007 4x4 Sport QC
Couple mods here and there.

Went down once to the 1/8th mile here in San Diego but didn't have any blow-downs on my bottles so didn't pass tech. so no times as of yet.

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2007 4x4 Sport QC
Couple mods here and there.

Yeah, if I had the time and the energy to re-do it, I'd put the fuel cell on the other side of the bed and run it all up the inside the passenger side frame. Hindsight...

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2003 Ram
Arrington 426 stroker
TCI 727
FAST XFI
2006 Magnum R/T
Diablo
Flowmaster catback
Arrington heads/cam coming soon...
ARRINGTON POWER: When you're ready to get serious

Very nice write up Jared. Want to do an install on the Power Tour? :D

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Duane Garrett
Owner, 3rd Strike Performance